The Garden Museum is on the South Bank of the Thames, next
to Lambeth Palace and with a fine view of the Houses of Parliament, in an old church that has fascinating tombs and memorials within its grounds.
My description of the exhibition is purely from a dressmaking point of view but the stunning installation by Rebecca Louise Law of live flowers hanging over the entrance space must be mentioned. It was installed at the start of the exhibition and the blooms will wilt and decay gradually during the run.
Before you enter the exhibition area there is a very
interesting display of garments created by MA students at the London College of
Fashion. The photo shows me standing
next to the display of outfits created by Lei Wang using two white silk
fabrics, one an ethereal transparent
gauze and the other a delicate herringbone weave creating a textural variation. The stitching was faultless, a lesson in
exquisitely made collars, pockets, perfect seams and zip installation. The left and right sides of the garment were
not the same in one item, another way of introducing contrast.
Ana da Siva Rodriques display used very simple shapes and
primary colours in unusual textured modern fabrics while Yunweit Jiang showed
almost sculptural clothes featuring geometric shapes in double-sided felt-like
fabric, each side a different colour. A
skirt hem graduated up in steps from front to back, an oblong cutout in a top
allowed you to see what was underneath.
In the small exhibition itself, where photographs are not
allowed, items from the 1600’s featured beautiful floral embroidery and
paintings showing lace that mirrored the patterns in parterre gardens. Flowers could also be seen worked on slippers
and a “pocket”, not the sort we have today but a separate item attached under
the skirt, probably the equivalent of today’s handbag. I’ve often thought that a decorated “pocket” attached
by loops to a skirt or dress belt would be so useful at work to carry pencils,
notebooks etc. around.
I was disappointed in the rather tame designs for floral
woven silk on display because I know of wonderful examples by English 18th
century designers, especially Anna Maria Garthwaite, that they could have
used. Have a look at some of the items in this lovely blog post
http://dressedintime.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/a-new-years-day-well-spent.html
Unfortunately the European Galleries are currently closed for building works but due to open in December 2014
http://dressedintime.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/a-new-years-day-well-spent.html
Unfortunately the European Galleries are currently closed for building works but due to open in December 2014
There was a small section about artificial dyes and how
attracted the Victorians were to these but I thought it might have been more
relevant to gardening to discuss natural plant based dyes.
Some examples of current fashion garments inspired by
gardening, sometimes very loosely inspired, were on display. The most stunning of these was a Valentino
evening cape inspired by wrought iron designs used in gates, obelisks
etc.. One could easily create one’s own
version, perhaps a loose transparent tunic, embellished with piping in toning
or contrasting colour, to wear over a flesh-coloured camisole top.
Generally considered I wasn’t crazy about this
exhibition. It was so small (one room) I feel I must go
back again in case I missed some of it hidden up an alley- and to have some more amazing cake from
the café, which specialises in food from nature. Thus I had courgette, ginger and lime cake
with plump sultanas in it and a creamy topping – but I could have had a cake
based on butternut squash, or a raspberry Brownie, or orange, rosemary and
almond cake or …. Enough! You can get a
flavour (I’m thinking food again!) of the exhibition here http://www.gardenmuseum.org.uk/page/fashion-and-gardens. Do watch the video interview to see some of
the items that I could not photograph.
And a glimpse of one of those memorials with which to end-
Thanks so much for a wonderful report on your visit there! I had never heard of the Garden Museum and even though I've been to Lambeth Palace I hadn't noticed it - I must check it out soon!
ReplyDeleteThe flower display looks and sounds really intriguing, such lovely flowers and what an interesting idea that they will wilt throughout the length of the exhibition. I also really like the display you were able to photograph, and I checked out the V&A images. It reminds me that I want to learn so much more about the history of clothes and fashion. Thanks so much for posting!