armscye | the part of the garment that the sleeve will be sewn into |
bias | also called cross-grain. Instead of the normal orientation of the fabric, this is at 45 degrees to the grain |
dart | a dart shapes a garment. A dart is formed by pinching off excess fabric and sewing along to keep the sections together. Darts can be tapered to one or both ends. A pleat sometimes acts as an open dart that hasn't been sewn shut |
fold | Usually referred to as 'on the fold': you fold the fabric lengthwise and cut the left and the right half of a pattern piece in one, on the fold, without cutting a centre seam |
grain | the direction of the fabric: either in the direction of the warp (lengthwise grain) or the weft (crosswise grain) |
muslin | a) or toile: a first draft or trial version of a garment in an inexpensive fabric to check for fit. Alterations can be drawn on and then transferred to the pattern to be used with the final fabric - b) a type of fabric (the calico type can be used to make a muslin as in a) ) |
nap | the pile of a fabric that can be brushed in one direction, e.g. on corderoy or fur. Take care to cut all pattern pieces with the nap or pile oriented in the same direction |
notch | a marking on your dressmakig pattern often in a diamond shape. Notches are used to match seams of adjacent pattern pieces in the right places. They can be cut outward or marked with chalk, tailor tacks, a frixion pen etc |
pleat | a fold in the fabric sewn into place at the top, or partially sewn down and then allowed to spring open. A dart is a pleat that was sewn shut along its full length |
wearable muslin | see: muslin (a). A muslin made with the aim of being able to wear this draft version although it will be made a second time in the intended fabric |
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To be continued. Feel free to add terms. Use the 'HTML' tab to use the table formatting, just copy from another row.
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