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. . . . . . A place to contribute, exchange tips and ideas and find further info on the LDC group on Meetup.

Saturday, 26 November 2022

Drafting sleeve patterns

I've been messing around with drafting sleeve patterns. I even drew up quite a number of different designs, around 12 at last count, back in January. 

I made up a few of them as isolated samples, and that's how far I got. I only did a set of two cowl sleeves in a blue fabric I had from a fabric swap (love the colour of the fabric, thank you so much to whoever donated it!), but I have not decided yet what bodice pattern I want for this top. I'll Frankenpattern the needed armhole onto whatever bodice pattern I go for.

The other blouse I started at the beginning of the year was a Lekala pattern using the black and white colour way of a lovely Rose and Hubble fabric I got from Pound Fabrics. Unfortunately I did not do a muslin to check if the armhole goes with my sleeve template - it does not. So I will need to adjust the sleeve slightly. That might not be too much of a problem, but again, I have not decided on what sleeve design I want. I am waiting for inspiration to strike.

Now that we have November (where did the time disappear to?) I though I'd post at least some of my sleeve drafts. Perhaps this will inspire me to continue with either the cowl top or the Rose and Hubble sleeves.

I like this design - a tab gathers the horizontally folded fabric and pulls it into a bow. You could even have a press stud at one end so you can iron the sleeve flat and only gather the bow after pressing. It would be very practical.

The arrow I drew onto the lozenge* shaped bit indicates that you need to fold up the lower edge of the lozenge and align it with its top edge. The top end of the tab gets sewn into the fold, perhaps a little higher than my dotted line in the above photo.  You can stay-stitch the relevant sleevehead edge inside the seam allowance to keep the fold in place before sewing into the armhole. 

The self facing at the bottom is folded up inside for a neat hem finish.

And this is what a sample of this sleeve design looks like:


I am really enjoying this shape though I don't know just yet what it will look like when worn. Will the gathering tab look too prominent, too centered, too high?  It will be interesting to try out.

I suppose that there is no dire need to center it exactly, it could move a little towards the front or even the back. Once made up as a blouse I would like some photos to be taken so I can see what this looks like from an objective distance. Just checking the mirror does not give all the useful information you want to evaluate a style.

Please wish me luck that I will sew up a blouse with this sleeve design soon, or one of the other two I mentioned above. It would be so nice for my sewing motivation to come unstuck. Well, if not this year, then 2023 is 12 months long, surely I'll make some progress eventually.


*: Strictly speaking the shape I'm talking about could be called an elongated hexagon. I like lozenge, but this shape is obviously a stretched-out one. I hope you know what I mean.